Monday 28 May 2012

Notes from The Bizarre Traveller


Having just come back from a hugely inspirational trip to Porto, I wanted to share my experiences of a fabulous place perfect for a long weekend break.

We left a cold and damp England and arrived at Porto airport in 30 degrees heat, just a little over 15 km from the city centre.

We were immediately whisked to the designer ‘guest house’, 4Rooms, to a warm welcome. A large steel door gave nothing away as we entered an oasis of clean lines, light spaces and design led furniture. Prize winning architect Eduardo Souto de Moura has created four incredible guestrooms, along with a garden, patio and refreshment area in the smallest street in the most fashionable quarter of Porto. Starck and Kartell furniture populate the ridiculously lovely space as light filters in, creating the effect of space - most liberating.

Having been told to hunt out white port, visit the Museu de Arte Contemporanea, eat sardines and go to the beach…. we did in fact find a wonderful concept store - 66 avenida brasil. With cafe, artefacts, fashion, jewellery and books it’s a true retail treasure and one very similar to our vision of how retailing should be. Well worth a visit.

Praia do Ourigo bar
The afternoon was so delightful that I stopped in a bar overlooking the Atlantic sea and ordered a cold beer. Built on stilts over the beach, Praia do Ourigo bar is the spot to be.

Yup ......night life was good. We started Saturday evening with delicious fresh fish on the portside. All the restaurants set up a grill outside and cook the fish of your choice. Served with rice, beans and a local bitter vegetable (which I adored - similar to kale but looks like rocket with the bitterness of spinach). The food was accompanied by a local crisp white wine, followed by creme brûlée and 20 year old port - heaven….

Twins night bar was quiet so off we went to a nightclub, downing Heineken and dancing until 4am. Finally, an easy meander home and then to bed, watching the stars under our glass ceiling.

Gaia
We started next day by cycling - picked up brand new bikes from Douro Cycles and the city was ours. The whole of Porto appears to be on a huge fitness regime: runners, cyclists and walkers populate the seafront promenade, and the city park is full of yet more fitness fanatics. The cycle routes were clear and fun as we snaked around the park, finding our route out and through the quiet part of town to the path along the River Douro to Gaia on the other side of the river, home to the giant port houses. Names such at Sandeman, Cockburn, Dows and Ferreira, they rise out of the hillside on sides of the original buildings. A Mecca to those that love this fortified wine.  

The ultimate highlight of the break was the Saturday supper. 4rooms recommended their affiliate restaurant, five doors down the road. Owned and run by Pedro Lemos, www.pedrolemos.net, the restaurant was truly wonderful. Voted the finest in Portugal, the food was out of this world - we tried the five course tasting menu with the accompanying wines for each course. The sommelier was attentive, hugely knowledgeable on his country's wines and great fun.Pedro came out to talk to us and recommended a port, appropriately, to accompany our coffee. 

We sat on the beautifully appointed deck and mulled over our favourite city break to date.

Places to visit
To stay: www.4rooms.org
To watch the Atlantic: Praia do Ourigo bar
Shopping: 66 avenida brasil concept store. Http://66avenidabrasil.com

x
Nicky

No comments:

Post a Comment